Neither plain nor overtly patterned, herringbone occupies a particularly useful middle ground. Its distinctive broken zigzag brings subtle movement and texture to a fabric without demanding too much attention, which helps explain why this centuries-old weave feels as relevant in contemporary interiors as it does in more traditional schemes.

Woven from wool, linen, cotton and various blends, herringbone is as suitable for curtains and blinds as it is for sofas and armchairs. Here, we look at what defines herringbone, how different fibres affect its character and how best to use this versatile fabric in your home.

What is Herringbone Fabric?

Herringbone is a type of broken twill weave, recognisable by the repeated V-shaped pattern created by reversing the direction of the diagonal weave. The resulting zigzag is said to resemble the bones of a herring fish, from which the pattern takes its name.

It is this structure that gives herringbone its quiet decorative appeal. From a distance, a finely woven herringbone can read almost as a plain; move closer and its subtle shifts in colour and direction become apparent. The result is a fabric with greater depth and movement than a solid colour, but one that remains remarkably easy to live with, as seen here in the gentle tonal variation of Faroe.

‘When a plain can feel too flat, a herringbone introduces subtle variation through its colour and texture,’ says interior designer Henry Prideaux. ‘It can bring just enough pattern to a scheme without becoming dominant and, as herringbones are often very hardwearing, they can also be a great choice for upholstery.’

That ability to sit quietly within a scheme is one reason herringbone has proved so enduring. Depending on its scale, colour and fibre, it can feel crisp and tailored or soft and textural, providing a useful foil to more expressive patterns elsewhere in a room.

Herringbone and Twill: What’s the Difference?

Herringbone belongs to the twill family of weaves, but the two are easy to distinguish once you know what to look for. In a traditional twill, the characteristic diagonal lines continue in the same direction across the fabric, as illustrated by Danube Twill. With herringbone, the direction of the weave is reversed at regular intervals, breaking those diagonal lines into its distinctive V-shaped pattern, clearly visible on the armchair upholstered in Leckford in Greystone.

The difference is subtle, but each brings a slightly different character to an interior. Twill has a quieter, more uniform appearance, introducing texture without an obvious pattern, while herringbone creates greater movement and visual interest. Both can work as an alternative to a plain when a scheme calls for texture rather than a more decorative motif.

How Durable is Herringbone Fabric?

Herringbone fabric can be remarkably hardwearing, but the weave alone doesn’t determine how a fabric will perform. Fibre composition, weight and construction all play a part, so it is important to consider where and how a fabric will be used before making your choice.

For upholstery, the Martindale rub count offers a useful indication of durability. Unst, pictured here, is a fine herringbone woven from pure new wool with an impressive rub count of 40,000, making it suitable for both general domestic and contract upholstery. Groselto, woven from a blend of linen and viscose, has the natural, textural appeal of linen coupled with a 35,000 Martindale rub count, making it another practical choice for sofas and armchairs, as well as loose covers and curtains.

‘For us, it all comes down to practicality and whether a fabric has the right rub count for where it is going to be used,’ says Henry Prideaux. ‘Upholstery needs to withstand considerably more wear than a fabric chosen for curtains, so it’s always important to check its suitability rather than choosing on looks alone.’

Not every herringbone needs to work quite so hard. For windows, a lighter weave can bring a softer character. Danube Herringbone, woven from pure linen, has a light, breezy quality that drapes beautifully, making it particularly suited to relaxed curtains.

Is Wool Herringbone Comfortable? What to Know Before You Choose

Durability is only part of the equation when choosing a herringbone for upholstery. Wool is naturally associated with warmth and softness, but its handle can vary considerably depending on the yarn and weave, so a fabric that looks inviting isn’t necessarily one you will want against your skin.

‘When using wool, always check how it feels,’ advises Henry Prideaux. ‘Some wools can be a little rough as they’re not all woven in the same way. The last thing you want is a sofa that looks great but isn’t comfortable to sit on.’

This is particularly important for sofas and armchairs, where comfort matters as much as appearance; it is probably less critical for pieces such as ottomans or occasional chairs. Ordering a sample allows you to see the true colour and scale of the herringbone and, importantly, to handle the fabric before committing. Foss, pictured here on an armchair, is woven from pure new wool. Its fine herringbone brings subtle texture and a smart, tailored quality to the piece.

How Much Herringbone Fabric Do You Need? Understanding the Pattern Repeat

When calculating how much herringbone fabric you need, pattern repeat is an important consideration. This is the distance over which a design completes itself before beginning again and, while it may be very small on a fine herringbone, it still needs to be considered when calculating quantities. As a rule, the larger the repeat, the more fabric will be required for accurate pattern matching.

For curtains, start with the required cut drop, including allowances for the heading and hem, then check the fabric’s vertical pattern repeat. The cut drop should be rounded up to accommodate the next complete repeat, then multiplied by the number of widths required, with a little extra allowed for accurate pattern positioning.

The same principle applies to other repeating geometric designs. Bolero, pictured here, has a compact vertical repeat of just 1.7 cm, so relatively little additional fabric is required to accommodate it.

If in doubt, ask your curtain maker or upholsterer to calculate the quantity before ordering. A little extra fabric at the outset is considerably more useful than discovering halfway through a project that you don’t have enough.

Matching the Pattern Across Joined Widths

For wider curtains, several widths of fabric may need to be joined together, and this is where careful pattern matching comes into play. With herringbone, each length should be positioned so that the distinctive zigzag continues cleanly across the seam rather than appearing to jump or break.

The same attention to alignment applies to other regular geometric patterns. Zeus, pictured here, demonstrates how a strong zigzag creates a continuous rhythm across a curtain: if adjoining widths were out of step, even by a relatively small amount, the interruption would quickly catch the eye.

Pattern matching also matters in upholstery, particularly across larger areas or where a design travels from one section of a piece to another. A skilled upholsterer or curtain maker will take the repeat into account when cutting and joining the fabric, another reason to establish the correct quantity before work begins.

 

Styling Herringbone: Pairing It with Other Patterns

One of herringbone’s greatest strengths is its ability to play a supporting role. More interesting than a plain but quieter than an overt pattern, it can provide a useful anchor in a layered scheme, bringing texture and rhythm without competing for attention.

This makes it a natural companion to more exuberant designs. Try a herringbone sofa with cushions in a blowsy floral, for example, or use herringbone armchairs to ground curtains in a large-scale print. Shown here on an armchair, Cobblestone demonstrates how even a restrained herringbone can bring subtle pattern to a scheme. Stripes and checks can work equally well: the key is to vary the scale so that each pattern has room to breathe rather than allowing several similarly sized motifs to jostle for attention.

‘Herringbone works particularly well with both large- and small-scale patterns,’ says Henry Prideaux. ‘I tend to think of it almost as an alternative to a plain: it has enough character to add interest but is quiet enough to sit comfortably alongside a stronger design.’

Colour can provide the thread that pulls different patterns together. Choose a herringbone that echoes one of the colours in a floral, stripe or check, or keep the palette tonal when a quieter effect is called for. Quietly distinctive in its own right, herringbone is at its best when giving other patterns the space to shine.

FAQs

1. Is herringbone fabric expensive? Not necessarily. Herringbone describes the construction and pattern of a fabric rather than its price point, so costs can vary considerably. Factors such as the yarns, manufacturing process and complexity of the weave can all influence price, making it more useful to compare individual fabrics according to their quality, performance and intended use.

2.  What is another name for herringbone? Herringbone is sometimes referred to as a broken twill weave, a name that describes its construction. Unlike a continuous twill, the direction of the diagonal weave is regularly reversed to create herringbone’s distinctive V-shaped pattern.

3. What’s the difference between herringbone and houndstooth? Although both are classic geometric patterns, they are easy to tell apart. Herringbone creates a repeated broken zigzag, while houndstooth is distinguished by its irregular four-pointed checks. Herringbone generally reads as the quieter of the two, bringing subtle movement and texture where houndstooth makes a stronger graphic statement.

Whether used as a quiet backdrop or to bring subtle pattern to a room, herringbone is a timeless and remarkably versatile choice. Discover Linwood’s collection of herringbone fabrics and order samples to find the perfect weave for your scheme.